It’s a long, pothole-riddled road ahead and I’m fresh off the plane from an 11-hour flight from London to Cancun – the perfect conditions for a three-hour drive to reach a small, remote fishing village in the north of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula.
Locals assure me the trip to El Cuyo will be worth it. Particularly, for anyone wanting to experience the quieter side of Mexico’s coast during its busier months. After several warnings from friends saying I should avoid the peninsula altogether due to overtourism, I’m on a mission to discover less-frequented spots. If I can find them.
In recent years, tourism figures have rocketed in Mexico and the country’s picture-postcard Yucatán Peninsula, with its turquoise waters, golden sands and endless supply of delicious tacos, has borne the brunt of that with 2.4 million visitors (roughly the size of Houston, Texas) in 2023 alone – a figure that was up 34.2 per cent from 2018, according to the state’s tourism figures.
By the time I hit the road at 11am, it’s a hot and sticky 30C. I rapidly navigate my way out of one of the region’s hotspots, Cancun – famed for its resorts, nightlife, and throngs of spring breakers – and start down one of only two roads to El Cuyo.
It doesn’t take long for signs of city life to fade away. Sparkling developments give out to small villages; little roadside shops pop up with the odd vendor selling piles of fruit; a local peddles down the road on his bike, unfazed by the dog snapping at his heels alongside.
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Set within the Unesco protected Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve – home to pink water lagoons, swamp crocodiles and hundreds of bird species – El Cuyo’s magic quickly sparkles. The main road into town cuts through the surrounding lagoon and from the car I spot a flock of resident pink flamingos cooling down in the midday heat.
The town itself is sleepy with few tourists in sight aside from a handful of kite surfers taking advantage of the beach’s windy conditions. I quickly learn there’s a thriving food scene here, with cafés like Navios serving up cheap and excellent plates of grilled octopus and homemade tortilla chips for lunch, while restaurants like El Chile and Mowgli are creating more refined menus that do a good job of showcasing the local produce, such as freshly caught prawns or beef from a nearby ranch.
After El Cuyo, I head to a town called Chiquilá, where I ditch the car and hop on a ferry to car-free Isla Holbox – a popular alternative to party spots like Tulum on the mainland. While this isn’t exactly a quiet haven, the vibe here is chilled and people mainly get around by foot, bike or the ubiquitous golf cart.
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I reach the beach in time for a beer in front of an epic sunset, which blushes the sky with vivid shades of coral and rose, and then head to El Bebote for a stonking plate of BBQ-grilled steak tacos, quesadillas oozing with cheese and smoky corn on the cob. I top them with spoonfuls of salsa picante (made from the country’s favourite chilli, the jalapeño, blitzed up with loads of lime) and eat them contented, perched on a small plastic table at the side of the road.
I’m told another way to lose the crowds in Mexico is to opt for the five-star treatment – and who I am to argue? So my next pit stop is at the uber luxury hotel Maroma, which is nestled between white sands and lush jungle on Punta Maroma, north of the tourist favourite Playa del Carmen.
Recently renovated in 2023, the hotel only has 72 rooms and suites, so the private beach and surrounding grounds can be enjoyed hassle-free. After knocking back a welcome mezcal cocktail on arrival, I freshen up in my suite and then go for a wine tasting to learn about the region’s wine production. This included a genuinely excellent glass of the sparkling Puerta del Lobo from El Marqués in Querétaro, which could give any bottle of French plonk a run for its money.
During my stay here, I’m also treated to a ‘Mayan Power Massage’, which uses hot stones and specialist techniques to unknot muscles (much needed after a couple of weeks backpacking).
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Rejuvenated and back on the road, I inch closer to party central Tulum before detouring to a small complex of treehouses about 26km away called Ikalar on the edge of Akumal. A passion project by architect, Andrés Suárez, this is currently home to only three houses, though Andrés tells me of his plans to slowly expand across the near one-acre plot of land.
Each structure has been designed with no straight lines – influenced by Austrian-born artist and architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser – and the whole complex is powered by green energy. The door to my room is reached by its own floating bridge, while the interiors are minimalistic with loads of natural light and a large bathtub to cool off from the humid conditions.
There isn’t much to do here and that’s part of its charm. With me and my partner the only people on the premises that evening, we spend the evening reading in peace and listening to cicadas rhythmically chorus in the jungle around us.
For my final stop, I jump on the recently-opened Tren de Maya and travel south to a small town called Limones, where I hail a taxi to the beach town, Mahahual known for its Unesco Banco Chinchorro Biosphere Reserve about 25 miles off its coastline – one of the largest atolls in the northern hemisphere. The area’s coral reefs, abundant marine life and shipwrecks make it a great diving and snorkelling destination and despite being a pit stop for the odd cruise ship, this place didn’t feel overrun with tourists.
Back on shore, I stroll along the town’s back streets to find one last taste of local food. A string of local street food vendors beckon me over as music blares out from a stereo system. I hop between the stalls, sampling tacos, burritos and homemade salsa picante before finishing off with a batch of freshly fried churros and melted chocolate, total foodie bliss.
Where the writer stayed:
El Cuyo: Dos Mares Barefoot Hotel
Isla Holbox: Mapache Hostel & Camping
Punta Maroma: Maroma, A Belmond Hotel
Akumal: Ikalar
Mahahual: Nacional Beach Club & Bungalows
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