Why I Think Everyone Should Try Aji Fry Teishoku When Visiting Tokyo

Sushi. Ramen. Wagyu. Kaiseki. The must-eat list for Tokyo is a mile long. In two decades of living here, I’ve tried much of what the city has to offer, from Michelin-starred fine diners to venerable holes-in-the-wall, never even coming close to exhausting the possibilities in this endless metropolis.

But there’s one dish I recommend for every visitor, a simple homestyle favorite. While you can and should try all the high-profile favorites when you visit, save room for a lesser-known meal: the humble fried horse mackerel meal or aji fry teishoku in Japanese.

Teishoku refers to a fixed-price set meal, usually available at cafés or other reasonably priced venues. In an aji fry teishoku, the main dish is panko-breaded mackerel fillets fried with the tail on, butterflied in crispy little triangles and usually garnished with shredded cabbage and a wedge of lemon. While fried fish is appealingly familiar across various ages and cultures, the aji furai teishoku is quintessentially Japanese in its presentation, paired with the traditional complement of white rice, miso soup, and pickles.

The secret to aji fry’s appeal is its simplicity. The panko breading adds satisfying crunch to the flaky mackerel, its mild flavor given just a bit of bite from the lemon squeeze. Hot from the fryer, it never disappoints.

Meanwhile, the endless regional and personal variations of miso soup and pickles mean each shop’s set is just a little different. Red miso or white? What do they put in it? Are the pickles salted or brined? What vegetables do they use? From the basic template emerge infinite teishoku variations.

In Tokyo, I recommend Meguro Kitchen (2-11-12 Meguro) for an authentic experience, but wherever you travel in Japan, you’ll spot aji fry at mom-and-pop restaurants, roadside diners, and izakaya pubs because the ubiquitous, all-seasons dish has the homestyle nostalgia of meatloaf for Americans or shepherd’s pie for Brits. Put aside Instagram’s latest food obsession and find out why this classic dish is the one I just keep coming back to.