Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Resorts Collection

In the U.S., the Auberge Resorts Collection is known for managing some of the country’s best luxury hotels—several of which have made appearances in Travel + Leisure‘s World’s Best Awards and the It List. In Europe, though, the brand is still a relative newcomer, and after having stayed at several Auberge properties in America (including Maine’s White Barn Inn, The Vanderbilt in Newport, Rhode Island, and Mauna Lani in Hawaii) I arrived in Florence to see what their very first hotel in Italy was all about.

It is, after all, a big deal for both the city and the company—most of the high-end hotels in Florence are located in the dense city center. They usually occupy former palazzi (townhouses dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries) and have limited space for amenities. But what I found at Collegio alla Querce is wholly different from the rest of Florence’s hotel scene.

My first glimpse of the property came after a 15-minute taxi ride from Santa Maria Novella, the city’s main train station. Anyone who’s stayed in the center of Florence will feel the difference immediately: the upscale residential neighborhood of hillside villas gave way to a long, gently sloping, cypress-lined driveway revealing a handsome 16th-century building surrounded by greenery. In its former life, Collegio alla Querce was an all-male boarding school intended for the sons of well-to-do families. From the south side of the property, there’s a view out towards the terracotta-roofed, Renaissance-era buildings of the city’s historic center, and on the other side are villa-dotted hills. There’s a large swimming pool on the opposite end of the entrance—it’s reportedly the longest outdoor hotel pool in the city at 115 feet.

Aside from the visually stunning exterior renovation, the main thing I noticed about the property was how quiet it was. Birdsong was the primary soundtrack, and the tourist cacophony of the Centro Storico, less than two miles away, felt very distant. The interiors, meanwhile, designed by local studio ArchFlorence, felt like a sleek, palatial variation of the Tuscan countryside aesthetic.

But rustic this property is not, and walking through the hushed, pristine hallways and common spaces swathed in glossy marble, creamy limestone, polished terrazzo floors, and tasteful artwork, it occurred to me more than once that the hotel would have made a perfect set piece for an episode of Succession. Still, the atmosphere was lively and warm, and the staff unfailingly gracious. Undoubtedly, though, Collegio alla Querce will appeal to a largely American traveler who’s used to very expensive luxury resorts and the seamless, “no request is too big” service to match.  

Here’s what it’s like to stay at the Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Resorts Collection.

The Rooms

There are 83 rooms and suites at the Collegio alla Querce. I stayed in a giant 1,600-square-foot one-bedroom suite, and I loved the thoughtful design details. There were coffered wood ceilings, a glazed ox blood tile-covered shower, a television discreetly hidden behind a mirror in the living room, parquet wood floors, and a stand-alone soaking tub. There were also gorgeous ceramics placed throughout the room that were sourced from local makers Studio Ceramica Giusti, and custom furniture made by Milan-based Paolo Castelli. 

During my stay, I also toured several accommodations, and I noticed a few things. Each unit had a slightly different character while still feeling part of a unified aesthetic. For example, in one of the standard rooms I visited, exquisite hand-painted wallpaper depicting the Tuscan countryside adorned one of the walls. The Suite Giardino, which felt like a private apartment, featured restored frescoes and a stone fountain. At the top end of the spectrum is the seven-bedroom Palazzo Moderno, a three-story, 6,258 square-foot space accessible by a private driveway and elevator. It comes with a series of vast rooftop terraces, views of the Duomo, and a private plunge pool. 

Food and Drink

Collegio offers four food and beverage options, the primary venue being La Gamella, which is adjacent to a verdant outdoor garden with patio seating. The space occupies the building’s former dining hall. My days started here with a beautifully presented buffet table full of items like bread, pastries, yogurt, fresh fruit, and meats like bacon and sausage. There was also an à la carte menu for more elaborate egg dishes, brioche French toast, ricotta pancakes, and the like. 

La Gamella shines brightest at dinner, though. Chef Zamperetti created a menu that riffs on seasonal Italian classics, with produce sourced from nearby farms and pasta handmade on site. Among my favorite dishes were the wood-fired chicken cacciatore served with spring potatoes and shallots, the Mediterranean bluefin tuna tartare, and a luscious millefoglie for dessert—caramelized puff pastry embellished with a rich vanilla cream and a dash of apricot sauce. For a fun after-dinner treat, head to Conservatorio, where you can enjoy a glass of wine along with live music.

Elsewhere, there’s an extraordinarily atmospheric lounge, Bar Bertelli, which was once the headmaster’s office. Part library, part sitting room, it has dark woods, antique rugs, and richly patterned textiles. Guests can order craft cocktails at the circular bar, and for those who indulge, there’s a small, clandestine cigar room just off the entrance. And while it wasn’t yet open on my visit, you’ll soon be able to order wood-fired pizza at the poolside Cafe Focolare amidst a garden of olive trees. 

Activities and Experiences

Aside from the amenities like the pool, spa, gym, and yoga studio, Collegio offers an array of experiences, both on and off-property. During my stay, I did two of them. The first was a tour of the Florence Cathedral (more commonly known as the Duomo), which was completed in 1436 and conceived primarily by architect Filippo Brunelleschi. For over two hours, my group had up-close access to this incredible feat of engineering—we even got access to the elevated walkways, so we could see the interior of the intricately painted dome. We also went out on an outdoor rooftop for stunning views of Florence. (Fair warning: it’s probably not the best excursion for those afraid of heights, and I had to leave the tour early when we were about to climb to the very top of the Duomo, which is over 375 feet high). 

The second was a fun and educational 90-minute pasta-making class at Cicchetti with chef Zamperetti. She spoke about the various types of pasta found throughout Italy, provided insight into how the restaurant sources produce and ingredients, and answered questions about Italian cooking with the knowledge of a true expert. After practicing kneading, sheeting, filling, and shaping our tortellini, I left with some new skills to try back home. 

The Spa

Aelia, the hotel’s spa, has an unusual setup: it’s a highly individualized experience, and there are no locker rooms. Instead, guests are led from a lounge that overlooks an outdoor terrace and garden into one of four treatment rooms—two single rooms with private changing areas and showers, or two larger suites, each with their own soaking pools and steam showers. (For those looking to sauna, you’ll need to book a time as there is no communal sauna.) The setting includes murals of olive trees across the walls, while an actual olive tree acts as the centerpiece—a nice touch.

The spa has a partnership with Italian skincare brand Furtuna Skin, and my therapist used its products for my massage and facial. These contain potent, wild-foraged botanicals and olive extract sourced from Furtuna’s 800-acre organic farm in Sicily. Aside from spa treatments, there’s a selection of classes like yoga, pilates, meditation sessions, personal training, and an excellent gym with state-of-the-art equipment.

Family-friendly Offerings

During my stay, I saw several families checking in and enjoying meals together, and the property has even developed an entire wellness program specifically for children ages 5 to 12. Offerings include yoga for kids and a sound bath workshop, where participants can explore the use of gongs, chimes, and singing bowls. Other kid-friendly options abound, like a pasta-making class, pastry making, and the “My Happy Florence” tour, which is tailored towards families. It includes a visit to a preserved 16th-century home to learn about the traditions and daily life of Renaissance Florence. There’s also a stop at Museo Galileo for educational hands-on science exhibits, as well as gelato tasting and meetings with local artisans.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Being a renovated historic property, rather than a new build, means that sustainability is an inherent feature of this hotel. During my time here, I never saw any single-use plastic, and all in-room water bottles were made of glass. 

In terms of accessibility, the hotel has made many of the pathways wheelchair-friendly, including routes to the swimming pool, restaurant, spa, and all guest rooms. There are also accessible parking spaces in the self-parking facility and a selection of accessible guest rooms.

Location

From Firenze Santa Maria Novella, the main train station in Florence, it’s a quick and easy 15-minute taxi ride to the property, and it takes about the same amount of time to get to the hotel from Firenze Santa Maria Novella (FLR). Since there are no nonstop flights from the U.S. to Florence, many visitors arrive from Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (FCO) or Milano Malpensa Airport (MXP) in Milan. They are both less than two hours’ distance via high-speed rail, or a three or three-and-a-half-hour drive, respectively. 

The location is one of the defining characteristics of the property, since almost every comparable hotel in this price range is near or in the city center. But there are advantages to this quiet, residential neighborhood on Florence’s north side. Despite the feeling of being in one of Tuscany’s small villages, it’s still possible to walk into town, which I did one day in about 30 minutes. It allowed me to pleasantly pass through places that were off the tourist map, and I got to poke my head into little shops, parks, and cafes. There’s also a complimentary shuttle that leaves every hour to take guests to and from the center of Florence.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

There’s no getting around the fact that rooms at Collegio alla Querce are some of the priciest in Europe, and Auberge Resorts does not have a loyalty program. However, Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Resorts Collection is part of American Express’ Fine Hotels + Resorts program, which offers benefits like a $100 resort credit, early check-in, late checkout, and (when available) a room upgrade. If you book your stay before May 23 and visit by May 26, you can get a complimentary third night if you make your reservation through the FHR platform.

Nightly rates at the Collegio alla Querce, Auberge Resorts Collection start at $1,600 per night.

Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.