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Bangkok’s vastness and undeniable humidity can overwhelm the unsuspecting visitor, so take your time when exploring and allow it the opportunity to unravel for you. Four days are better than just the one jet-lagged mooch.
With an estimated population of over 11 million, Bangkok – or Krung Thep Maha Nakhon as it’s officially known to Thais – has grown from a bustling, multicultural trading port to a heavy hitter on the world’s cultural landscape. It’s now as famed for its food, traffic and nightlife as its temples and history, with an art scene to watch.
There’s no denying that this city divides opinion. People tend to either love its buzz and stay for years, or hate the frenetic pace and leave as soon as possible, but make up your own mind in its broad parks and slender alleys in between stopping at the sights. Unlike most huge cities, the Thai capital is a friendly, safe place with a pleasantly low crime rate, where you can unwind and enjoy your arrival in ‘The Land of Smiles’.
What to do
A right royal welcome
Thailand is very serious about its monarchy and there’s nowhere to get a better sense of this than Bangkok – or, more specifically, its Grand Royal Palace complex. Established in 1782, when the capital of then-Siam was relocated to the area, the ornate structures include the royal quarters (which are only viewable from the outside but are nonetheless very impressive) and a stunning wat (temple) that was built to accommodate the infamous and slightly mysterious Jade Buddha, a totem that’s the real star here. There’s also a swish textiles museum that displays Queen Sirikit’s wardrobe and an epic antique batik collection amassed by King Rama V. You can whizz round in a couple of hours, but a half day is more leisurely.
Read more: Don’t let White Lotus fever scare you… luxury holidays in Thailand are cheaper than you ever imagined
A trio of temples
While they may not be the oldest in Thailand, Bangkok’s wats – devoted to the predominant national faith of Buddhism – are dazzling. Be sure to visit in appropriate attire, with your shoulders and knees covered, and remember not to turn your back or display the soles of your feet towards any Buddha icons. The three unmissables are Wat Arun, with its mosaic-coated, tall-spired stupas; Wat Pho, home to a colossal, golden reclining Buddha statue and the cemetery of the Kings; and hill-top Wat Saket, one of the oldest structures in Bangkok that predates the city’s foundation and is a busy pilgrimage site for Thais from across the country.
Dig into the arts and culture
Bangkok has some great cultural institutions displaying everything from ancient treasures to the freshest of fresh art. Nothing gives hints of the issues and cares of modern Thailand like its contemporary artwork, so visit one of its newer art spaces, such as MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) or BACC (Bangkok Art & Culture Centre). The Jim Thompson House Museum is another must-see. The former home of an American merchant and architect, who disappeared mysteriously in the Malaysian jungle, is chock full of antiques and artwork from ancient Siam. Elsewhere, for local history museum with a twist the Siam Museum is highly enjoyable for its ingenuitive displays and meditations on what it is to be Thai.
Fight night
Whether you’re a boxing fan or not, getting to watch a match at Rajadamnern Stadium is a real spectacle. The site has been hosting Muay Thai kickboxing tournaments since 1945 and is the largest place in the country to watch the sport-meets-artform, with pros from across the world throwing their punches. Match nights are on practically every night, with tickets available online or on the door (but check times and dates in advance).
Read more: Why you should visit Thailand during the off-season
Where to stay
Bangkok is truly colossal, so it’s smart to do some research and select a target neighbourhood before going ahead and booking accommodation. The Old Town and Chinatown are great for first timers. Silom and Chit Lom are good central spots to base yourself, while Sukhumvit is popular with party animals and brunch lovers alike.
There are some charming retro options in the old town, such as the light and airy Red Door Heritage Hotel, which has an enjoyable time warp vibe.
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A couple of blocks north, a well run guesthouse (staff couldn’t be more charming and helpful if they possibly tried) with a refreshing little swimming pool, DinsoMon Hotel has twin and double rooms from £40 a night, which includes breakfast.
The financial district of Silom, which is full of chic cafes and eateries and bougie spas is a great base. The outpost of hip chain The Standard is here, in the capital’s tallest skyscraper – the King Power Mahanakhon building. This branch comes with colourful suites, packed with its calling card mid-century modern design and unmatchable views of the city. Guests get a free evening pass to the high rise’s rooftop lounge, where you can gaze over the hubbub far, far below.
Edging towards trendy Sukhumvit, while still being slap in the city centre neighbourhood Chit Lom, the Anantara Siam Bangkok is pure class, from the gilded murals and chandeliers that adorn the lobby to their lush garden courtyard that’s lined with fabulous eateries and bars. It’s five-star Thai hospitality at its finest and a steal with rooms starting from £150 a night, breakfast included (and there’s no better breakfast in the country than an Anantara buffet).
Read more: Thailand travel guide – everything you need to know before you go
Where to eat
Number one for late morning grazing is expat’s favourite Toby’s on Sukhumvit 38, where the chef poaches eggs like nowhere else in the city, and coffee is served on a leafy outdoor terrace. If you’re just after a quick bite, duck into one of the delectable bakeries, including branches of Holey Artisan Bakery and the aptly named Brioche from Heaven.
Once you’re on the move, tuck into Bangkok’s world-renowned street food for lunch. The best in the city can be found on Chinatown’s Yaowarat Road, Tha Pra Chan district and the Banglamphu district. All three are satellites of the old town and have vendors and small restaurants that have been serving noodle soups for centuries. Sweet tooths should ask for kanom buang, a crispy pancake, or khanom krok, delicious coconut griddle cakes.
If street food isn’t your scene but fine dining is, be sure to reserve a table at the new hotspot in town Khaan, where up and coming young Chef Sujira ‘Aom’ Pongmorn is serving a gobsmacking eleven course tasting menu that highlights flavours from across Thailand’s regional provinces from £90 a head in her stunning modernist style restaurant.
For more traditional Thai dishes with a sophisticated twist check out Rongros, a riverside eatery with views of Wat Arun tucked down an alley near Wat Pho, where the rib-eye green curry will blow you away. Or, for a taste of Thai-Chinese fusion, don’t miss Restaurant Potong, set in an artfully renovated building in Chinatown where Chef Pam’s fine dining menu has cemented her place as one of Bangkok’s best chefs.
Read more: Escape Bangkok and explore these hidden corners of Thailand by rail
Where to drink
Thai tea and Thai iced coffee are popular with visitors and locals alike and plentiful in Bangkok, both drinks are milk heavy and extremely sweet so do say if you want them to hold the sugar. The Craftsman Roastery at Old Town is a trendy haunt with exposed brick and strong coffee, Rocket Coffee Bar S.12 in Silom take their drip very seriously, Piccolo Vicolo Cafe in Racthathewi is a spacious, plant-filled atrium of caffeinated bliss and the Bangkok branch of Gallery Drip Coffee is another strong choice, set within the sleek environs of the BACC gallery.
Bangkok’s nightlife is notoriously vibrant, whether you’re in the mood for sleek bars or a raucous weekend. The best of the jazz bars is Smalls, a much-loved joint in the south of the city with a relaxed ambience and cool decor, awash with fabric drapes and quirky art. Across town in Sukhumvit you have Havana Social, one of the area’s finest, playing Latin music in a Cuban-themed space. For the ultimate Bangkok vista, head round the corner to Above Eleven, where the views erase all memory of the substantial drinks prices.
If you’d prefer the open air, Beer Belly is the top choice beer garden, selling a very wide range of beers on draught tap. If you’re feeling sultry, Rabbit Hole has one of the most extensive cocktail menus in the city, with dark, moody interiors plus a lot of love and care put into the menu.
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Where to shop
Bangkok is a shopper’s paradise; from its gargantuan malls to labyrinthine markets, it’s easy to spend days browsing. If it’s malls you’re after, head to Rama I Road and get lost in Siam Discovery, Siam Paragon, Siam Centre and Siam Square One: adjoining malls where you’ll find everything from Balenciaga to Boots the Chemist.
For an authentic Thai experience check out the startlingly large Chatuchak Market (also known as JJ Market). It’s the biggest in the country and home to over 5,000 stalls that are loosely organised into areas including plants, used clothing and new clothes, shoes, kitchenware, musical instruments, silks and textiles, woodcarving, art and painting, books, leather goods, dried foods and antiques. Open on weekends, you need to go with a game plan and give yourself at least half a day if not longer.
A real gem in the north of the city is Papaya Design & Furniture Studio, the largest vintage furniture emporium in South East Asia. It’s quite a trek, up near Don Mueng airport but worth the pilgrimage and the staff can arrange to ship your purchases home.
Architectural highlight
If you’re heading north to the Chatuchak area for the market, be sure to check out the Elephant Building; its three towers (A, B, and C) are linked across the top by a link of residences. Jury’s out as to whether it’s the coolest or ugliest site in town. The other unmissable (and Lego-looking) high-rise is Bangkok’s tallest, the King Power Mahanakhon building.
Read more: The best time to visit Thailand for a holiday – and when you’ll be able to avoid the crowds
Nuts and bolts
How should I get around?
The BTS SkyTrain and Metro services are cheap, safe and useful when going long distances, but it’s Bangkok’s motorcycle taxis that get you from A to B with ease. You can use apps Bolt or Grab to summon one or flag down one of the motorbike drivers wearing a red vest.
What’s the best view?
Mahanakhon Skywalk viewing platform in the King Power Mahanakhon building provides jaw dropping 360° aerial views of the city if you’re happy to fork out the £13 entrance fee.
Insider tip?
Bangkok has a great network of canal boats that serve as a cooler and slower form of public transport. If you’re staying near a canal there’s likely a boat stop, which you’ll find marked out on Google Maps.
Read more: How Thailand’s elephant camps are transitioning to a cruelty-free future
