Anegada, British Virgin Islands, Travel Guide

Studded with private island resorts and crisscrossed by megayachts, the British Virgin Islands have long been considered the Caribbean playground of the well-to-do. But one of these things is, decidedly, not like the others. Understated, largely undeveloped Anegada “offers a remote escape,” says Mason Kramer, destination specialist at onefinestay, a luxury vacation home company with estates and villas across the British Virgin Islands and beyond. Flung out to sea far north of the rest of the archipelago, it feels a world away in more ways than one.

Even geologically, the island is different: While the volcanic islands like Tortola and Virgin Gorda tower with craggy cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea, Anegada is famously flat, little more than crumbles of coral emerging from crystal-clear waves. It’s blessed with empty beaches and ultra-fine sands, its turquoise waters revealing one of the world’s largest barrier reefs.

As the lucky few in-the-know visitors who experience the island know, the vibe on Anegada is like nothing you’ll find anywhere else. On an island with just a few hundred residents, where every road leads straight to the coast, the luxury lies in its natural beauty, raw, wild, and unchanged in its expansiveness. Grab a lounge chair, crack a coconut, and bask in the beauty of a bare beach; this is how to enjoy a trip to Anegada.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Anegada Beach Club

Breezy, bungalow-style palapas on the beach beckon guests to a unique indoor-outdoor accommodation experience at Anegada Beach Club, tucked along a secluded stretch of sand on the island’s north shore. It’s all laid-back luxury here, with more traditional hotel rooms facing a pool deck and added property amenities, including a rustic spa suite, water sports shack, and beach bar. The Beach Club’s toes-in-the-sand restaurant is easily among the best on the island.

Loblolly Beach Cottages

The four vibrantly colored cabins at Loblolly Beach Cottages are among the only development along one of Anegada’s most beautiful beaches, where the sand is so white and waves so clear you’ll wonder how it has escaped the overbuilt fate of so many miles of Caribbean shoreline. With little more than a few beach chairs and a tiny oceanfront bar, these clean, cozy accommodations feel perfectly remote and removed, just what the doctor ordered for your stay on Anegada.

Anegada Reef Hotel

With its sprawling oceanfront spot in the heart of Setting Point just a 10-minute walk from the jetty, Anegada Reef Hotel has been central to Anegada life and lore since the 1970s. This basic, 20-room boutique property is the perfect setting for walking to island restaurants and embarking on excursions or enjoying sunset from the oversized beachfront complete with a bar and restaurant.

Best Things to Do

Visit the conch mounds.

Just off the southeastern tip of Anegada, towering mountains of conch shells rise from the waves, an impressive remnant of one of the most widely consumed seafood staples in the BVI. Conch are said to avoid areas where they find empty shells, making the habit of discarding used shells in just one area of the ocean a sustainability practice that has been a boon for the creatures elsewhere. L&M Anegada offers jaunts out to the mounds, which can be combined with visits to other popular island spots for snorkeling, swimming, and sunning.

Snorkel at Horsehoe Reef.

The fourth-largest barrier reef in the world and the largest in this part of the Caribbean, Anegada’s Horseshoe Reef teems with tropical fish, candy-colored corals, and magnificent marine life. With its large swaths of shallow waters, it’s great for even beginner snorkelers, though experienced divers will have plenty to explore as well. Though there’s no dedicated dive shop on Anegada, many hotels rent gear to guests and can recommend charter captains who know all the best spots.

Go wreck diving.

The shallow waters surrounding Anegada’s reef have become the resting ground for an estimated 300+ ships over the centuries, making the island a sought-after spot for wreck dives in the Caribbean. One of the most renowned wrecks is that of the HMS Astrea, a British gunboat that ran aground as it headed to battle in the U.S. Revolutionary War. The Rocus, also known as The Bone Wreck, ran aground while transporting a cargo of cow bones to be used as fertilizer on the island, thus giving Anegada’s Cow Wreck Beach its unique name.

Try kitesurfing.

The consistent trade winds that have long made the BVI such a coveted destination for sailing also make it a haven for kitesurfers. Look no further than Tommy Gaunt Kitesurfing, located at Anegada Beach Club, to try this adventurous activity; Tommy is a master and makes the experience a breeze even for beginners. The outfit also offers more low-key options like paddleboarding and e-foiling, plus half and full-day excursions to popular snorkeling spots and the conch mounds.

Best Restaurants

Lobster Trap

Anegada is renowned for its lobster, and at the Lobster Trap, even the simplest preparation of the island staple is enough to wow. Juicy, whole lobster served grilled or blackened is best, though the menu at this famous haunt features every possible elaboration of the dish. Come for the seafood and stick around for the sunset views from this dockside spot in the heart of Setting Point.

Cow Wreck Beach Bar & Grill

Serving up barbequed ribs, chicken, and seafood just steps from one of the island’s most pristine beaches, Cow Wreck Beach Bar & Grill has been called one of the best beach bars in the Caribbean. Not to be outdone by Soggy Dollar Bar on nearby Jost Van Dyke, this local favorite offers its own “Cow Killer” beverage, a creamier take on the most famous drink in the BVI. The property also features a handful of colorful beachfront cottages available for short-term guests and long-term, seasonal stays.

Big Bamboo Beach Bar

Cross the island to reach Big Bamboo Beach Bar, “a must-visit for its lobster dishes and rum punches, offering a delicious taste of the island’s culinary scene,” says Kramer. Despite the restaurant’s remote setting, the spacious open-air dining room, live music, and mouth-watering Caribbean fare like saucy barbecued chicken wings and Anegada’s ubiquitous grilled lobster make it one of the island’s most popular spots.

Potter’s by the Sea

Jump off the ferry from Tortola and head straight to Potter’s by the Sea for ocean-to-table cuisine like flavorful barbecued lobster, fish, and conch pulled right from the sea. Live music in the open-air, overwater dining room keeps the party going and the drinks flowing well past sunset.

Areas to Visit

The Settlement

Despite being the second-largest island in the British Virgin Islands, Anegada has less than 500 permanent residents, most of whom are clustered in the island’s only town: The Settlement. The Settlement is home to little more than a few island-style rental properties, tiny stores for provisions, and local eateries, meaning most travelers will just be passing through.

Setting Point

On the island’s southern shore, the Setting Point is the location of Anegada’s only mooring. Shops, restaurants, and small businesses renting water sports gear and island-style jeeps have sprouted up near the jetty, where ferries and private ships that travel from Tortola and beyond pull in. It’s a convenient spot to start a trip to Anegada, the “liveliest” spot on an otherwise tranquil island.

The North Coast

It’s really no contest: The powdery fine sands and shallow waters of the beaches on Anegada’s north coast are the best in the British Virgin Islands. Secluded Loblolly Beach is one of the island’s best, and Cow Wreck Beach is “a peaceful and unspoiled haven, known for its crystal-clear waters and laid-back, off-the-grid atmosphere, making it an ideal escape for those seeking a quieter, more secluded beach experience,” says Kramer.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Anegada is between December and April when clear skies and slightly balmier temps make this the island escape of your Caribbean dreams. While the so-called Christmas Winds arrive in the British Virgin Islands from late December through February and make the crossing to Anegada slightly bumpier, the drier season is still among the most favorable times for sailing in this boat-crazed corner of the Caribbean.

Hurricane season lasts from June through November, and while storms are infrequent, expect generally warmer, wetter weather and passing afternoon showers.

Every late November and early December, the Anegada Lobster Festival takes the island’s year-round lobster love and turns it into an obsession, with local restaurants featuring special dishes and plenty of events making the spiny Anegada lobster the star of the show. Trust us, it’s worth traveling for.

Sailing enthusiasts should plan a visit in early April for the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival, “a major annual sailing event attracting visitors from around the world,” says Kramer. Though most festivities take place on Tortola, it’s easily one of the liveliest times to visit the BVI.

How to Get There

Anegada’s set-apart location is all part of its appeal. Most visitors travel through the Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) on Tortola, the main international airport in the British Virgin Islands. Also known as the Beef Island Airport, it receives frequent flights from islands across the Caribbean and a daily direct American Airlines flight from Miami that is often travelers’ most convenient option. Taddy Bay International Airport (VIJ) on Virgin Gorda also receives flights from San Juan, Puerto Rico, and St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands.

Ferries connect Tortola and Anegada one or twice a day, four days a week, making the journey in two and a half hours with an occasional stop in Virgin Gorda. Water taxis and private charter boats and flights also depart to Anegada from nearby islands, though on an infrequent and seasonally dependent basis. Tradewind Aviation offers private charter flights into Anegada’s tiny Captain Auguste George Airport (NGD), as well as scheduled service flights from San Juan to Virgin Gorda and Tortola for a semi-private air travel experience.

How to Get Around

Despite the island’s relative size, Anegada’s limited development is mostly confined to the coasts, making it a breeze to navigate. From the jetty at Setting Point, visitors will find small shops renting bicycles and scooters that feel suited to the island’s flat landscape.

Visitors can rent colorful, open-sided Mokes for a classic Caribbean way to explore the island or more standard off-road-suitable jeeps for the adventure set, available from the Anegada Reef Hotel. Or, taxis are readily available at Setting Point or in the Settlement if you’d rather leave the driving to the professionals.