It should be remembered that Seville is a city that is enjoyable all year round—it hardly ever rains and there are few cold days. But the light and the sun are crucial in Seville. Starting in March, people begin to prepare for longer days and think ahead to Easter, the April Fair and the pilgrimage to El Rocío. The days are short, but the orange trees start to bloom, and the sun begins to bring people out onto the streets and into the bars. I would say that there are two fantastic times to visit, when Seville is at its most splendid and when you can experience it like a local: the week before Holy Week (it doesn’t matter which week it falls in) or at the end of September during the well-known San Miguel fair before the onset of Autumn.
What is it about Seville in spring?
For Sevillians, winter is long and hard, not because of the cold, but because of the short days. Sevillians need light and a social life, hence the number of bars and the joy in the streets. This is why, in March, just before the arrival of the “spring festivals”—Holy Week and one or two weeks after the April Fair—the city and the bars are more alive than ever. It means that March and April are the perfect time to visit the city.
Who is around this time of year?
It is undoubtedly a city that is visited by more and more people from all over the world and from all over Spain, but at this time of year, it’s mainly locals and other Spanish tourists looking for the magic of Seville at a more quiet time.
Ok so it’s spring in Seville—which local restaurant are we visiting?
Without a doubt, my favorite local place to eat is Periqui Chico, in the residential neighborhood of Los Remedios. It’s more a tapas bar than a restaurant, with a bar area and a few tables to sit at. It’s very local and pure, and with exquisite seasonal products. Another favorite is Espacio Eslava, in the San Lorenzo neighborhood, a few meters from the Church of Gran Poder. It perfectly combines Sevillian classicism with a touch of modernism; it has a small terrace and high tables; and it is perfect for that first beer or sherry wine. The place with the best terrace in Seville is Mariatrifulca—it has two levels, but ask for the higher one, which only has five tables. It has spectacular views of the Cathedral, Maestranza and Torre del Oro—and their paella is very good.
Is there a favorite seasonal, local dish to order in spring—and where can we find it?
