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No matter where you are in the world, the smell of freshly baked bread is mesmerising.
Taking refuge from an equatorial rain shower, I huddle inside a small bakery in a fishing village along the coast of Principe, eagerly watching flames leap from the back of a large clay oven.
Fortuitously, I’ve arrived just in time for the first batch of the day to be served. As I tear into the doughy mass, releasing plumes of steam, I indulge in a universal pleasure that’s been enjoyed for hundreds of years.
Breaking bread is one of the simple pastimes that make this remote island in the Gulf of Guinea so special. Together with neighbouring Sao Tome, it makes up one of the smallest nations in West Africa. Much calmer and laidback than anywhere on the mainland continent, it’s more akin to a Caribbean getaway, and the sandy, unspoilt beaches are equally first class.
Yet unlike winter sun favourites on the other side of the world, Principe remains largely undiscovered.
There are no major chains, no advertising billboards and only a handful of basic shops in the sleepy main town Santo António. Built during an era of Portuguese colonisation, when the islands were used as a base for trading slaves, ruins of sugar cane and cocoa plantations have since been swallowed by the voracious jungle.
Making the admirable decision to reject projects for palm oil cultivation, residents have chosen to embrace ecotourism, under the guidance of pioneering sustainable tourism enterprise HBD which manages three properties on Principe (and recently acquired the only other hotel in operation).
The backstory for HBD (Here Be Dragons) is an unusual one.
Making history by being the first African to enter space in 2002, entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth had an epiphany while staring down at our tiny blue planet. By the time he’d landed back on earth, he was determined to do whatever he could to protect it.
Mapped: Principe
Initially, he looked at Principe as a private island investment but soon realised the population – the true custodians of the wild environment – would benefit from tourism. His intention was to create jobs by opening the destination up to the rest of the world, without disrupting the natural beauty at its core.
Set on a remote peninsula at the northern tip of the island, Bom Bom (a former fishing lodge) was the first hotel to open. A smart but unassuming collection of bungalows with two beachfronts – for sunset and sunrise – it’s since achieved accidental cult status. Closed for three years since the pandemic, it’s recently reopened and I’m one of the first guests.
By 6am, it’s already light as I walk along my empty beachfront. Boys in wooden pirogue boats are silhouetted on the distant horizon. Western reef herons forage along the shoreline, while brightly plumed malachite kingfishers add flashes of colour to the tangle of emerald forest which covers most of the island. But even their shimmering turquoise wings aren’t a match for the rich jade hues of an ocean so clear, I can see 15 metres to the bottom.
Although there have been several enhancements to Bom Bom, including a recently opened restaurant and a beach bar in the pipeline, growth is still refreshingly slow. Even getting here is a journey, requiring a flight via Lisbon and Sao Tome.
But distance and difficulty are in part responsible for preserving this time-frozen patch of paradise.
Here are five reasons why it’s worth making the effort:
1. Pristine rainforests – In 2012, thanks partly to the efforts of HBD and rallying from members of the local community, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO World Biosphere. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, home to a high number of endemic species living in a rainforest estimated to be 31 million years old.
2. Rich marine life – Waters fringing the island are also teeming with marine creatures. Humpback whales can be seen between July and October, while five species of turtles – loggerhead, olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback – nest on beaches from November to March.
3. Delicious chocolate – During the years of Portuguese rule, a cocoa industry thrived on the island. HBD have revived production on a small scale at heritage property Roca Sundy, a former plantation open to guests. A small shop sells edible and cosmetic products.
4. Heavenly hiking – Beyond the beach, the mountainous interior is well suited to hikes. One of the most popular routes is to the top of Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), one of several phonolitic towers.
5. A role model for Africa – HBD is in the process of launching a new Natural Dividend project which will financially reward islanders for their efforts in protecting ecosystems and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes the model can one day be replicated across Africa.
How to plan your trip
Rainbow Tours offers a stay at Bom Bom as part of a nine-night trip to Sao Tome and Principe. From £3,550pp (two sharing), including half-board accommodation and flights. Visit rainbowtours.co.uk
