China might want to think again about its use of tourism as a means of influencing Palau. The people of the little Western Pacific country believe they’d be better off without swarms of tourists from China on their islands, causing environmental damage and spending their money mostly with Chinese businesses.
Other ill-effects include upward pressure on prices and the locking up of land in China-linked real estate investments, Palauan officials and people involved in tourism said in interviews.
In a leaked letter this year, the president of the country of 18,000 people, Surangel Whipps Jr, told an unidentified US senator that China had offered to ‘fill every hotel room’ and build as many more as Palau wanted.
To Palauans, that sounds more like a threat than a promise. A senior official sums up the general assessment of tourism from China: ‘The negative impacts [are] more than the value of the tourism itself.’
China has already put Palau through a cycle of what it thought was economic inducement and punishment. Last decade, it ramped up tourism numbers to the country but then knocked them down again by revoking Palau’s status as an approved destination, punishing it for continued diplomatic recognition of Taiwan. Arrivals from China peaked at 90,000 in 2015 and slumped to 28,000 in 2019, before the Covid-19 pandemic crushed tourism globally.
Now tourism from China is rising again: 8000 visitors from the country arrived in the five months to May.
There is a sense in Palau that it is just the beginning of resurgence. Businesses and investors connected with China have begun refurbishing Chinese restaurants and hotels in anticipation of a new surge in visitors. In what looked like a deliberate reminder of China’s economic importance ahead of Palauan general elections on 5 November, direct flights from Hong Kong resumed just five weeks ago.
When Americans, Australians and people from most other countries travel to Palau, they stay in Palauan-owned hotels, eat at Palauan restaurants, hire Palauan tour guides and contribute to the Palauan economy.
When tourists from China come, ‘they have these charter flights coming in, where a Chinese company owns a hotel in Palau, owns a tour company in Palau, owns the airplane that’s bringing them into Palau, so all this money that is being made from these tours is not trickling down to the local economy,’ says a former Palauan tour guide who, like other people interviewed for this report, asked not to be named.
One of the interviewees adds, ‘Chinese tour companies bought out entire hotels,’ leading managers to cancel reservations for other tourists. That ‘destroyed the market overnight’ for tourism from elsewhere.
This person also says that when tourists began arriving last decade, Chinese companies began acquiring long leases on prime real estate. (Foreigners can’t buy land outright.)
The senior Palauan official says, ‘One of their methods is they’ll lease property for 99 years and they don’t do anything to it, so they’re basically stalling development for Palau. That’s one of their tactics’ to gain economic and political influence. The result is diminished opportunity for locals to build businesses on suitable land.
Palauans have seen tourism drive inflation and expect that a renewed surge in arrivals from China will do the same again. ‘This kind of mass tourism will tend to push up the price of mass produce and local resources…,’ says the senior official. The price of giant coconut crabs, for example, was US$7 per pound before last decade’s tourism surge, the official says. Now it is US$60 per pound.
While tourists from any country will always include some who care little for protecting the natural environment, Palauans have found that the problem is unusually serious with groups from China.
The former tour guide recalls damage that tourists from China caused to one beautiful attraction, Jellyfish Lake. Some stole protected jellyfish from the lake to eat in their hotel rooms, using drawers as cutting boards. Hotels were forced to replace furniture and remove utensils that could be used for cooking.
Palauans often hear of tourists from China stealing animals from native habitats and bribing guides to look the other way. One interviewee describes instances of people from China taking giant clams for consumption directly from a reef. Another says tourists paid fishermen to bring them turtles, clams, shark fins and even dugongs, all of which are protected.
Then there’s infrastructure and business disruption. During the initial surge ‘they [came] in such big numbers, it overwhelms our sewer systems,’ the former tour guide said. ‘It overwhelms our stores. It overwhelms our tour services.’
Palau’s government has been trying hard to diversify tourism sources. Two weeks ago, Palau signed a deal with Japan for direct flights from Tokyo in 2025. Three days later, Australian airline Qantas agreed to take over direct flights from Brisbane from Air Nauru, aiming to increase frequency.
Palau’s people will welcome that.
Beijing has presumably imagined they would instead welcome another wave of tourism from China. But the behaviour of many of its tourists, the disruption caused by their arrival surges, and the cornering of their spending by operators and hotels connected to China—all these have only helped to galvanise Palauans against Beijing.
