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Emeril Lagasse is synonymous with New Orleans dining. Lagasse famously joined the legendary Commander’s Palace as an executive chef, opened his flagship restaurant Emeril’s in 1990, and brought Creole and Cajun cooking to every household through his cookbooks and Food Network shows Emeril Live and Essence of Emeril.
But his latest eatery—34 Restaurant & Bar—in New Orleans, a city famous for its culinary scene, is a nostalgic detour celebrating his roots: growing up in a Portuguese household in Fall River, Massachusetts. (The area has the largest concentration of Portuguese Americans in the United States.)
34 Restaurant & Bar is a family affair. It’s a project Lagasse worked on with his son, E.J., who is also a chef and the co-owner of the restaurant. But it’s also a tribute to his mother, Hilda, who grew up in the Azores, and the dishes she whipped up. “Caldo verde (a traditional soup) was a weekly staple—and still probably is in our house today,” Lagasse told Travel + Leisure about the standout dishes his mother made. “And lots of fish and seafood, like pork and clams, mackerel in the summer, and little baby sardines. We would go to the beach to get periwinkles, which my mom would cook at home.”
Randy Schmidt/Courtesy of 34 Restaurant & Bar
A core food memory from his formative years is tied to malassadas, a Portuguese fried dough pastry. “We would go to the bakery, buy six or 12, and put them in a paper sack, covered with granulated sugar, like a lot of sugar,” he told T+L. “It’s an art that we’re losing in Portuguese culture.”
Lagasse got his culinary start in a Portuguese bakery at just 13 years old. “The influence of the Portuguese culture, my environment, and my mom—that’s the foundation of what I am today,” Lagasse said.
With Chef Emeril Lagasse
What are your favorite regions of Portugal?
Lisbon is the heartthrob, but I love the Douro Valley, too.
What are the telltale signs of a good restaurant?
The bread service, the bathrooms, and the soup. If they’re putting love into those things, you’re likely going to have a great experience.
What’s a favorite restaurant for a night off?
Yakuza House.
How do you spend time on a plane?
I read or I play games (Golf Solitaire).
What’s one thing you can’t travel without?
A Saint Christopher charm. (Saint Christopher is the patron saint of travelers.)
Where do you like to go to relax?
I like the ocean.
What will you never eat on a plane?
I usually order the chicken or pasta option; I never order the fish or beef.
Lagasse poured his childhood and heritage into the menu at 34 Restaurant & Bar alongside E.J., who took over Emeril’s in 2023 and revamped the establishment. “E.J. and I had been talking about doing a tribute to my mom but also a tribute to where I grew up and the culture that he and I really enjoy,” Emeril Lagasse said. “It’s a great feeling to have my son as my partner; we’re having a lot of fun.”
For E.J., working on a project tied back to his heritage has been fulfilling: “I’ve got to do restaurant projects that have to do with pure nostalgia for me—and that’s been the joy of a lifetime for me. It’s meant everything.”
JAMES COLLIER/Paprika Studios/Courtesy of 34 Restaurant & Bar
As for what it’s like working with his dad, E.J. told T+L, “He’s full of one-line bits of advice and wisdom, but I’m so glad he didn’t allow me to work for him at the beginning—that’s probably the greatest gift he gave me.”
Emeril Lagasse’s perfect meal at 34? “I love the duck rice and the paella and espetada (skewers),” he said. As for E.J., he recommends starting with pao com tomate and ending with the pineapple foster—followed by an espresso.
Randy Schmidt/Courtesy of 34 Restaurant & Bar
Not surprisingly, Emeril Lagasse’s favorite food city is New Orleans. “I think what makes it so special is there’s so much tradition for so many years,” Lagasse said. “You have this strong heritage of Spanish, French, African, and a little bit of Italian, but now the evolution of what’s happening in New Orleans is you can have food from Vietnam to Senegal. The food scene has changed dramatically.”
Lagasse told T+L the No. 1 meal a first-time visitor should have is a po boy at Domilise’s, but the one thing most visitors forget to try is a sno-ball at Hansen’s Sno-Bliz, which he said is a local institution. His other New Orleans hack? Opt for the Cafe du Monde in City Park for none of the lines and all of the vibes.
As for his favorite restaurants in The Big Easy, Lagasse said, “I love Paladar 511, and then the spots that have been open for a while, like Brigtsen’s Restaurant.” But his favorite food is Vietnamese, and he thinks New Orleans has some of the best Vietnamese cuisine in the country. His personal favorite is Phở Tầu Bay Restaurant, where his go-to order includes the chargrilled pork spring rolls with peanut sauce, the chicken pho, and the grilled pork banh mi with the pate add-on.
Second only to New Orleans, his other favorite food destination is Lisbon. “It’s like New Orleans,” he said. “It doesn’t matter where you go—high-end, low-end, medium—you’re going to have good food.” His favorite restaurants in Lisbon include Tabisco Lisboa, Taberna da Rua das Flores, and Alma.
“I think one of the best and most accessible ways to experience a local culture is through food,” he said. “You can see what type of food is at the mini mart or bodega and get a sense of what locals are eating. In Louisiana, you’re going to see boudin at the gas station. In Mississippi, you may find boiled peanuts. There are food clues all over, not just in formal restaurants.”
