The sap is rising in London – nature is waking up, and that includes all of us. After shying away from going outside all winter, I’m desperate to go on some long walks and gush about how nice it is to be out. If you’re feeling it too, I suggest the Capital Ring – it’s here that I’ve enjoyed many of my favourite times with my city.
The Capital Ring is a waymarked walking route that links up scenic spots in a circle around London, all within 10 miles of Big Ben. The 78-mile (126-kilometre) path is a mix of urban and green walking, starting in Woolwich in the east and heading south through Crystal Palace. After passing Tooting and reaching Richmond in the west, the trail crosses the Thames and heads up to Harrow, before turning north towards Highgate. Then the trail runs through Hackney and down to the Royal Docks, before returning to its starting point.
If you’ve already been to Hampstead Heath and Kew Gardens and want to see more, the Capital Ring is a brilliant way to get under the skin of London. I’ve lived in nearly every corner of the city in my 20 years here, and I was still amazed to find just how much was still unknown to me. For every leafy moment on the Capital Ring, like the serenity of the 8,000-year-old heritage forest in Oxleas Wood, there’s an urban reveal such as walking along the fascinating abandoned tube line in Haringey.
The Capital Ring is officially divided into 15 sections, each 4.5 to nine miles long, conveniently lined up to start and finish near Tube or train stations. But as it’s all within London, it’s easy enough to bail out early if you, like me, should happen to find yourself parched in a field after getting lost in Horsenden Hill on one of the hottest days of the year. Established in 2005 by the London Walking Forum, the Capital Ring route is now the responsibility of each London borough as it passes through. Volunteers with the Inner London Ramblers do a smashing job of making sure the waymarkers are mostly in place. Before heading out, make sure to visit their website for section maps, which include step-free alternatives.
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While the Capital Ring is a scenic route, it’s also a representation of London, for better and for worse. There are definitely a few waterways along the way that could use a refresh, and at a low point I found myself struggling to complete a train of thought for the roar of the North Circular. But the Capital Ring will waste no time in reminding you of just how varied London is – before I knew it, the din of traffic had faded and I was in Highgate Wood, suddenly transported into a hushed forest.
Circumnavigating London on my own two feet has shown me how big and endlessly diverse the city really is. While there are parts of the Capital Ring I wouldn’t go back to, I’m still glad I walked all of it. There’s the satisfaction of a continuous footpath and a complete circle, but London isn’t always pretty and this wouldn’t be a representative walk if it was just nice parks. Even when I found myself keen to see the end of uneventful Greenway, I was intrigued to find a plaque explaining it used to be called the Sewerbank, for reasons explained by the name – and did you know that Gandhi used to walk there in 1931, when he visited London for three months to discuss the future of India?
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Some of my best moments on the Capital Ring were connecting two areas I’d previously only visited by Tube; now, they fit together like pieces of a puzzle. I loved feeling the city expanding in my mind, changing slowly as I walked through the Commons of South London, or transforming in an instant as I crossed train lines in Harrow and Wembley. Walking the Capital Ring means I know and understand my city better, and because of that, I love it all the more. Now that spring is here and the sun is out, I can’t wait to get outside again – there’s always more London to explore.
The Capital Ring in sections
Best for being in the woods
Section 8 follows the surprisingly verdant River Brent as it takes you from Osterley Lock to Greenford. You also get a close-up of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s imposing Wharncliffe Viaduct.
Best for urban flair
Starting in Stoke Newington, section 13 runs along the River Lea’s cosy houseboat community. Then it’s on to the unique street art in Hackney Wick, where you can treat yourself to a cold brew at a waterside bar.
Best for London history
Section 1 from Woolwich to Falconwood has a little of everything. Here you can see the Thames Barrier, some gritty old industry, lots of open green space, and a curious castle before finishing up in an ancient forest.
Best for avoiding mud
Unless it’s high summer, you may encounter some mud while walking the Capital Ring, but Ssction 15 from Beckton to Woolwich will keep your shoes clean, as well as provide a fascinating tour of the Royal Docks in transition.
Best for great views
There are plenty of great vistas along the Capital Ring, but section 4 from Crystal Palace to Streatham brings you some of South London’s best green spaces with views that don’t disappoint.
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